We have had a request for more detailed descriptions of the food here, and today is a good day to fill that request, because we had the best meal we have had since we’ve been in Paris. It was a very reasonable fixed price menu of 13 euros at a restaurant called Le Reminent on the wonderfully-named Rue des Grandes Degres (sorry, Blogger doesn’t do accents), roughly across from Notre Dame. The first course they called a “German Salad,” and it consisted of salmon, diced pickles, a small bit of mustard, some fruit (apples, I think), and although it was not something I would have thought I would like, it was just wonderful, the flavors strong but not too strong. For the main dish, I got a light fish, which was baked and served with a light yellow butter sauce and a formed mound (that’s a French culinary term) of shredded vegetables. The fish was absolutely perfectly cooked, so flakey and tender that the bites practically fell off one after the other, and the sauce was subtle and not too rich (even though it was a butte sauce of some kind). On top of the fish were sauteed onions that tasted like super-onions, intensely flavorful and sweet. The vegetables were a delicious, somewhat spicy combination. Dessert was a fresh fruit salad, light yet sweet and satisfying. We topped off the meal with an espresso (for me) and a cafe creme (for Suzie and my mom), and the whole meal was 100 euros, which in addition to the three courses and coffees included two Diet Cokes for the boys, a bottle of excellent wine, and a liter of Boudoin mineral water. The service was absolutely impeccable, efficient, friendly but not too friendly, and perfectly timed. Although it is the case that all of our meals here have been good (and some very good), this was the first that managed to leap up into the “definitely memorable” category. I should add that the other first course was tomatoes and mozzarella (spelling, sorry, no English dictionary here and it’s late), the other main dish was lamb (the best I’ve ever tasted, honestly), and the other dessert pineapples.
So that was the highlight. In the morning, Suzie and my Mom went to a farmers market in the suburb where we’re staying, and I took the boys to the Pompidou Center to see the modern art museum. I was glad I went; although some of the material was (sorry, no other way to say this) just plain stupid (e.g., the idiotic video of the Sesame-Street-like character chopping off his fingers — oh, wait a minute, I’m sorry, that was a deep reflection on the violence in our capitalist media culture, I just was too simple to see it), other exhibits were very captivating and moving, and some … and you gotta love this in an art museum (especially the day after all the impressionism at the Musee d’Orsay) … some of the exhibits made me laugh out loud, in a good way. I think the boys enjoyed it too, although they were a little taken aback by some of the nudity and by the Cookie Monster look-alike chopping off his fingers. But the building was cool, and the views from the top floor were excellent.
After lunch we walked through the Latin Quarter to the Arenes de Lutece, an ancient Roman amphitheater built in the first century AD and rediscovered in 1869. It is in excellent condition, with stone seats that curve gracefully and precisely around the floor.
This evening, Suzie and I engaged in another shopping excursion (the contents of which may not yet be revealed), topped off by sharing an excellent half salad at a sidewalk cafe a block off the Gare St. Lazare. The few evening outings I’ve had alone with Suzie have been the best times of the trip for me, relaxing in the soft evening air and the pale, tan and gold evening light. I wish that I could bottle that feeling and carry it back home with me, for use at those times when life seems to be nothing but the grind of chore and obligation, to remember that life is sweet and good.
This last picture requires explanation. Each park has posted this huge sign with very small print, explaining all the rules and regulations of the park. My attorney friends will appreciate that the first chapter, as it should, describes what parks and promenades the rules apply to (all public gardens and promenades, and also those private gardens that have become open to the public as a matter of convention). It is duly signed by Jacques Chirac, Mayor of Paris.
Categories: Travel -- France